Somnathpura - Poetry in stone..(Hoysala series)

Somnathpura, located about 35 kms off Mysore is a classic example of Hoysala architecture which developed under the influence of Hoysala empire during the 11th to 14th century. The architectural style which peaked during the 13th century was influenced by the social, cultural and political events of the period. Temples built prior to mid 12th century reflected a dominant western Chalukyan influence. Post Hoysala period the temples showed a combination of Chalukyan as well as decorative examples of Hoysala craftsmanship.

The Hoysalas usually dedicated their temples to lord Vishnu or lord Shiva.  Worshippers of Shiva are called Shaivas or lingayats while worshippers of lord Vishnu are called Vaishnavas. Though King Vishnuvardhana was a Vaishnava by faith he ensured social and cultural harmony by constructing Shiva temples as well.

Chennakesava temple at Somnathpura  was commissioned by Soma who was a Dandanayaka ( commander ) to the powerful king Narasimha III During 1268 C.E. It is a star shaped temple showcasing typical elements which are features of Hoysala architectural style . An ornate Mantapa, Vimana and meticulously carved reliefs on the exterior of the temple take you to an era bygone. 

Entrance to the temple

The Temple opens to visitors around 9.30 a.m. Being only about 35 kms from Mysore it is a good idea to make the city your base and hire a taxi for a day to take you there and back. Have a hearty breakfast before you leave and carry some light brunch to ensure you do not run hungry when there. Somnathpura by itself is a small town and do not expect much in terms of food. But well, usually backpackers find their own spots where they can satiate their hunger. Also carry water if traveling during summer. For photographers reaching there on time becomes imperative to get the right light and beat the tourists, so starting early would be a good idea.

The first sighting of the temple doesn't give away much, you see an entrance porch with an walled enclosure. The trikuta vimanas peek over the walls giving you a glimpse of what lies ahead. Once you walk in through the porch with tall lathe turned pillars it's a sight to behold. The chennakesava temple is home to three shrines with its own vimanas. The northern sanctum houses the idol of lord Janardana while the southern sanctum is the abode of lord Venugopala. The Idol of lord Kesava which adorned the central hall is missing today which is replaced by a replica.

The shilalekh at the entrance.

Surrounding porch with lathe turned pillars

One of theVimanas housing the sanctum inside

The temple is based on a Jagati (Platform) which can be accessed by a flight of stairs. The jagati helps in allowing the devotees to make a ritualistic clockwise circumambulation around the shrine. The three vimanas(towers) are located towards the back of the platform. A flight of steps from the jagati lead you to a rectangular mantapa from where the three shrines are accessible. One directly in the front while other two to the left and right.

Exterior of the temple with the Jagati

 

 

The outer wall of the mantapa has well decorated reliefs and friezes with pierced window screens above them.  

Exterior of the Mantapa with pierces window screens.

Interior of the Mantapa

Lathe turned pillars inside Mantapa

Carved pillars inside Mantapa

The exterior walls are adorned with detailed sculptures of cavalry, elephants and deities. It also has a few panels dedicated to kamasutra. The south side wall depicts scenes from Ramayana, the north one shows Mahabharata while the rear panel is dedicated to lord Krishna.  Other sculptures depict the material comfort of that age including members of royal family riding decorated chariots, commoners and soldiers riding horses, camel drawn vehicles, musicians, dancers hunters with bows and arrows along with dogs on a hunting trip. Intricate carvings of jewelry such as necklaces, pendants, rings and women sporting hairstyles which were in vogue during that era are seen abundantly .

Intricately carved panels on the exterior

Detail in Jewelry

 One of the other striking feature is sculptures of Vishnu avatars including Narasimha and Matsya avatar on the outer walls below the vimanas.

Narasimha avatar

Lord Bramha

Lord Krishna

Another example of the splendid sculptures

When you visit such places it is important to know the history behind the place and what it has to offer. India has a rich culture and heritage. Such temples apart from being places where people pray, offer a huge insight from historical point of view. Unless you study the history behind the place before you visit, it will just be another monument rich in carvings which would mean nothing to a common man.

Best time to visit - Definitely winter after October through to march. Summers can be a bit painful since the stone structures heat up.

Accommodation - the best suggestion I can offer is to stay at Mysore and hire a cab to travel to and fro unless you have your own mode of transport.

Food - None unless you consider chips and soft drinks as food.

Washroom facility - Available and pretty decent.

For photographers - Best lenses to carry - a wide angle, and one wide aperture prime to capture details. Tripods and flashes are not allowed, carry ample memory if you are a shutterbug who likes going trigger happy.

Coming up soon.. Belur, Halebidu and more..