Somnathpura, located about 35 kms off Mysore is a classic
example of Hoysala architecture which developed under the influence of Hoysala
empire during the 11th to 14th century. The architectural style which peaked
during the 13th century was influenced by the social, cultural and political
events of the period. Temples built prior to mid 12th century reflected a
dominant western Chalukyan influence. Post Hoysala period the temples showed a
combination of Chalukyan as well as decorative examples of Hoysala craftsmanship.
The Hoysalas usually dedicated their temples to lord Vishnu
or lord Shiva. Worshippers of Shiva are
called Shaivas or lingayats while worshippers of lord Vishnu are called
Vaishnavas. Though King Vishnuvardhana was a Vaishnava by faith he ensured
social and cultural harmony by constructing Shiva temples as well.
Chennakesava temple at Somnathpura was commissioned by Soma who was a
Dandanayaka ( commander ) to the powerful king Narasimha III During 1268 C.E. It
is a star shaped temple showcasing typical elements which are features of
Hoysala architectural style . An ornate Mantapa, Vimana and meticulously carved
reliefs on the exterior of the temple take you to an era bygone.
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| Entrance to the temple |
The Temple opens to visitors around 9.30 a.m. Being only
about 35 kms from Mysore it is a good idea to make the city your base and hire
a taxi for a day to take you there and back. Have a hearty breakfast before you
leave and carry some light brunch to ensure you do not run hungry when there.
Somnathpura by itself is a small town and do not expect much in terms of food.
But well, usually backpackers find their own spots where they can satiate their
hunger. Also carry water if traveling during summer. For photographers reaching
there on time becomes imperative to get the right light and beat the tourists,
so starting early would be a good idea.
The first sighting of the temple doesn't give away much, you
see an entrance porch with an walled enclosure. The trikuta vimanas peek over
the walls giving you a glimpse of what lies ahead. Once you walk in through the
porch with tall lathe turned pillars it's a sight to behold. The chennakesava
temple is home to three shrines with its own vimanas. The northern sanctum
houses the idol of lord Janardana while the southern sanctum is the abode of
lord Venugopala. The Idol of lord Kesava which adorned the central hall is
missing today which is replaced by a replica.
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| The shilalekh at the entrance. |
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| Surrounding porch with lathe turned pillars |
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| One of theVimanas housing the sanctum inside |
The temple is based on a Jagati (Platform) which can be
accessed by a flight of stairs. The jagati helps in allowing the devotees to
make a ritualistic clockwise circumambulation around the shrine. The three
vimanas(towers) are located towards the back of the platform. A flight of steps
from the jagati lead you to a rectangular mantapa from where the three shrines
are accessible. One directly in the front while other two to the left and
right.
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| Exterior of the temple with the Jagati |
The outer wall of the
mantapa has well decorated reliefs and friezes with pierced window screens
above them.
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| Exterior of the Mantapa with pierces window screens. |
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| Interior of the Mantapa |
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| Lathe turned pillars inside Mantapa |
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| Carved pillars inside Mantapa |
The exterior walls are adorned with detailed sculptures of cavalry,
elephants and deities. It also has a few panels dedicated to kamasutra. The
south side wall depicts scenes from Ramayana, the north one shows Mahabharata
while the rear panel is dedicated to lord Krishna. Other sculptures depict the material comfort
of that age including members of royal family riding decorated chariots,
commoners and soldiers riding horses, camel drawn vehicles, musicians, dancers
hunters with bows and arrows along with dogs on a hunting trip. Intricate
carvings of jewelry such as necklaces, pendants, rings and women sporting
hairstyles which were in vogue during that era are seen abundantly .
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| Intricately carved panels on the exterior |
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| Detail in Jewelry |
One of the other striking feature is sculptures of Vishnu
avatars including Narasimha and Matsya avatar on the outer walls below the
vimanas.
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| Narasimha avatar |
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| Lord Bramha |
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| Lord Krishna |
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| Another example of the splendid sculptures |
When you visit such places it is important to know the
history behind the place and what it has to offer. India has a rich culture and
heritage. Such temples apart from being places where people pray, offer a huge
insight from historical point of view. Unless you study the history behind the
place before you visit, it will just be another monument rich in carvings which
would mean nothing to a common man.
Best time to visit - Definitely winter after October through
to march. Summers can be a bit painful since the stone structures heat up.
Accommodation - the best suggestion I can offer is to stay
at Mysore and hire a cab to travel to and fro unless you have your own mode of
transport.
Food - None unless you consider chips and soft drinks as
food.
Washroom facility - Available and pretty decent.
For photographers - Best lenses to carry - a wide angle, and
one wide aperture prime to capture details. Tripods and flashes are not
allowed, carry ample memory if you are a shutterbug who likes going trigger
happy.
Coming up soon.. Belur, Halebidu and more..
